Brian Condon: Diary of James Alipius Goold, 1848-1886

Sunday 2nd October. Went by rail to Brentford where I celebrated Mass. The congregation is chiefly composed of my poor countrymen who find employment here in the cultivation of gardens. In the course of the afternoon visited several of them; their places were clean and comfortable, but humble; food abundant and wholesome.

Monday 3rd October. In Birmingham. Called on the Bishop, with whom I had a long conversation in reference to the affairs of Sydney.

Tuesday 4th October. Stopped for a few hours at Nottingham to see the friends of my esteemed friend Dr. Willson, Bishop of Hobart.

Monday 10th October. To Dover and Calais.

Tuesday 11th October. To Paris. I took a carriage and drove to Rue Casette, and purchased a portable altar containing everything necessary for the celebration of Mass; it cost 500 francs.

Friday 14th October. In Marseilles. Engaged my passage in a French steamer to sail on Sunday for Alexandria; 505 francs.

Sunday 16th October. Sailed for Alexandria.

Thursday 20th October. Arrived in Malta. Called on the Archbishop. He is about my age, 47 years. He is a clever and zealous man; finds the English plausible, but slippery. A Protestant church has been erected here, and a Scotch conventicle. The Protestant Superintendent of Gibraltar has lately taken up his residence here. Visited the grand Church of St. John, rich in marbles and silver. There is a large relic of the Holy Cross in this church. Many of the sacred ornaments of the church kept in this depository show neglect and want of respectful care. Visited several of the other churches; they are all clean, and some highly decorated with frescoes of some merit. Dined with the Archbishop; his table was frugally supplied. Living is rather expensive here.

Sunday 22nd October. In Alexandria.

Monday 26th October. To Cairo.

Tuesday 27th October. Visited the grotto where it is piously believed that the Holy Family lived during their exile. It is in the hands of the Coptic schismatics. It is a largely subterraneous chapel with some pretensions in style. Its roof is high and open, supported by pillars of marble. The screen before the altar is carved wood richly inlaid with ivory; it bears the evidence of ancient times.

Visited in the evening the convent of the Sisters of the Good Shepherd and went through the schools; called at the college of the Christian Brothers. Paid a visit to the Greek Patriarch, and the Bishop of the Catholic Coptic Church. The former is a man of intelligence; he is about 60 years of age. After some trouble and opposition the Greeks have been persuaded to conform to the Roman Ritual.

Friday 28th October. To Suez.