Brian Condon: Diary of John Thomas Hynes, 1843-1868
April 1st. Left Genoa for Turin by diligence as far as Novi - the remainder of the way by rail.
Put up at the Europa where I found the Tiffanys.
2. Sightseeing - engaged my place in the Diligence for Lyons by Mount Cenis on the 4th.
3. Turin appears headquarters for all the enemies of Rome and the Church. The churches in Turin are very fine, some of the finest I have seen in Italy.
1850. Turin. 4th April. The annoyance of passports is as great as ever, notwithstanding the attacks on the system in the English and French papers. Obliged to go in person today to the French Embassy, a thing never required before.
A cold contracted in Naples has pursued me hither, aggravated by twice standing for a while in my stockings on the cold and damp tiles of a room.
The Parliament is in engaged today in discussing the question of ecclesiastical immunities and the proprietary of abolishing them. The Minister for Finance, Siccardi, is the author of the new measure.
Left Turin this afternoon at 5 o'c. in the diligence of Bonafous for Lyons - at 1/2 past 11 arrived at Souza at the foot of Mount Cenis - towards morning got up as far as the 3rd refuge. The morning was cold and sleety and the path seemed rather dangerous - as we advanced the snow fell more thickly and all around looked wild and grand, mountain above mountain all clad in the livery. At 73/4 reached the summit - "refuge" no. 17 - a barrier is placed here and the descent begins - at the Savoy side of the Mount lies Lanslebourg, which we got to at 1/2 past 9 a.m.
Here we breakfasted, and after an hour's delay started again for Chambéry which we arrived at 1/2 past 12 at night - all my fellows travellers left me here and, after a couple of hours waiting in the Inn yard, [I] proceeded again on my journey. As soon as I could see by the grey light of the morning, a most splendidly picturesque country met my view ['view'added in pencil] - for many miles the road winds through a narrow defile of lofty but broken rocks, all dotted and spangled with wild flowers and creepers, making this passage of Savoy, I may say, from Lanslebourg to Le Pont on the Isère where the French territory begins, the most charming I ever travelled through.
1850. Lyons. 6th April. At 1/2 past 3 p.m. arrived at Lyons and made for the Hotel de L'Univers, which I have heard praised, but which does not appear to deserve it.
Since I left Naples, or rather since I entered Sardinia, my extra luggage has cost me F23.
The expense and annoyance of passports continues as bad as ever.
7th. Sunday. Still fatigued, but hope that in the morning I will be fresh to resume my journey to Châlons and Dijon - the first boat starts at 6 o'clock.
Just booked myself for Paris in the Bureau of the Messageries National - paid 48 francs - steamer to Châlons, rail to Dijon, diligence to Tonerre, rail to Paris.
9th. Arrived at five this evening in Paris after encountering en route the usual disagreements of travelling in France, the plunder right and left of Hotel Keepers and porters, the passport and luggage examinations annoyance and, above and beyond all, the horrors of the French Diligence on a well packed journey equal to those of the middle African passage.
10. Called at Daly's Bank and found F2,800 to my credit. Saw M. Kelly at No. 18 Rue d'Astor near the Madaleine [sic].
Visited the Dominicans at the old Convent of the Carmes, the scene of such a bloody tragedy during the old revolution. Father Lacordaire was out, but I saw the Prior, who pressed me to spend with them a few days. Wrote to Monsignor Barnabò.
11th. Broke up my quarters at the Ambassadeurs and made for the Dominican Convent, now called that of S. Thomas Aquinas. Father Lacordaire received me most cordially and assigned me two modest little rooms.
1850. Paris. April 11th. Visited the Irish College accompanied by one of the young Dominicans. Had a long chat with Dr Miley, who is in the thick of embarrassments occasioned by Dr MacSweeny's determined hostility, occasioned by some slight, real or pretended, which he has received from the Irish Bishops.
Went out with the Prior to various places and first to Choiselat Gallien's, with whom we had a long interview. He remitted 3 days ago, to London, orders for 11,000 francs. He informed us of the death of our good benefactress the Marchioness de Ponta Delgada.
The Dominicans attract great attention and are evidently much respected.
Called at Malachy Daly's Bank and drew the F2,800 deposited there - taking in Exchange a Bank of England note for £100, 8 sovereigns and some silver coins which - together with F8 commission - make £109.
Visited the Convent of the Oiseau and saw little Van Waterschoodt. She seems much smarter than her sister Marie.
Paid a visit also to M. Kelly, and called on Lady Airey, sister I think of Mrs. Everard.
Heard of the sudden death yesterday of Miss Anglin, companion of Mrs Paddington.
Father Lacordaire and the Prior continue very attentive. I regret so much that I cannot speak French fluently or I should derive great benefit from their society. The Prior was formerly an Architect - Fr. Lacordaire an advocate.
1850. Paris. April 13th. There are from 20 - 25 Masses in our Church every day. At my Mass today an Advocate communicated. He was the Patron of Lacordaire when the later was an advocate. There are 13 religious here, 6 of whom are students. The Novitiate is in Normandy and contains 15 novices. There are 4 Houses altogether at the present, and the number of Dominicans is about 40. Capuchins have made their appearance in Paris and are about opening a house. The Dominicans are the only regulars who have a public church.
Wrote letters to Mother Regis and Fr. Harold. Forwarded them to the Post Office.
14th. Assisted at the Consecration of the Bishop of Moulins - my Dominican Pontificals attracted a great deal of attention.
Heard Father Lacordaire preach.
15th. Left Paris for Calais, where I arrived in the evening.
16th. It is blowing so hard that I think it dangerous to cross to Dover.
17. The gale still continues, and altho' I paid my hotel bill &c I have given up the idea of crossing till the weather calms.
18. At 3 a.m. crossed to Dover - in 2 hours.
Put up at Webb's Hotel, Piccadilly - Crawley's and Ford's are full.
London. 19 April 1850. Wrote yesterday to L. Dempsey and Mrs. Gomez, today to B. Russell, Mrs. Bunbury, and Mrs. Grantley Berkley. Forwarded B. Russell's and A. Roche's faculties.
20th. Saw a very nice apartment today consisting of sitting room on first floor, bedroom on second - choice of a large and small one - the latter looks in the front but the former is larger, has a little closet and would seem the more comfortable of the two - terms 25/- per week - Landlady Mrs. Hunt, a young widow lady - address 34 John Street, Bedford Row.
22. The W. Ind: mail is in and brings me letters from Mother Regis and Mr Lordan. Recd. replies today from Mrs. Gomez, Mrs Bunbury, Mrs. Berkeley and L. Dempsey.
Posted a letter to Choiselat Gallien, wrote to Mrs. Gomez and Mrs. Bunbury.
Drew cheques at the L. J. Stock Bank for £35.
Paid Mrs Brown's acct. for newspapers &c.
On the 18th inst. deposited at the Commercial Bank a £100 note and a Bill on Choiselat Gallien for 11,200 francs.
Received on my arrival two most interesting letters from J. Goold, also several from Mother Regis and Mr Lordan - one from Mrs. Fitzgerald.
Preparing to start for Holy Head by early train in the morning.
23rd. Started for Holy Head at 1/4 past 6 a.m. from Euston Station.
Arrived at 1/4 past 5 p.m. but found that my luggage had gone astray.
Obliged to stay the night at Holy Head.
24. My luggage has been recovered. Started for Kingstown in the Company's Steamer Cambria - arrived in 4 hours.
Put up for the night at the Imperial.
25. Got into my old lodgings at Miss Kennedy's. Called at Denmark Street and saw the Prior - Father Folan. The little gentleman looked rather cross at the announcement of a visitation.
Dined at Denmark Street - all but Fr. White present.
Being asked by Dr Harold when I should hold the visitation I applied to the Prior to name any hour that would best suit the community when I received an impertinent reply which brought on a conversation in which F. behaved most rudely and disrespectfully. The particulars are not worth noting.
26th. Dined with Dr Murray - met at dinner Bishop Kennedy, who gave me a very warm invitation to Birr.
27. Wrote to J. Leahy an account of F. Folan's conduct.
Saw Mrs. Barry, who gave me £20.
Saw Dr Geoghegan.
Dublin. April 29 1850. Yesterday said Mass at the Sisters of Charity. Dined with Mrs. Cruise.
30. Got a package of letters yesterday at Walsh's Hotel.
Wrote to Mother Regis, Mr. Lordan and Mr. Taggart.
Wrote yesterday to Father Leahy in reference to his letter in reply to mine of the 27th.
Visited the ArchBishop who very kindly permitted me to appeal to his people on behalf of my Mission.
Said Mass at Sion Hill - saw Susan Barry, now Sister Mary Catharine.
I feel most distressed about Mother Stanislas and dread the arrival of the next Packet, lest it should bring unfavourable news.