1^st. October 1843. Left Siena at 6 o'clock a.m. for Florence, which we reached at 2.30 p.m. Informed M. K. of my arrival, but kept to my hotel for the day.

2nd. Called at Plowden and French's, where I met a son of James Murphy. I enquired after T. Hynes and accompanied Mr. Murphy to the Asylum to see him.

Wrote a letter enclosing bill for £280 to the London Joint Stock Bank, and posted it myself.

Saw M. K. and dined with Mrs. Browne, with whom she is domiciled - Mrs. B. appears to be a sensible, accomplished and highly respectable person - it is most fortunate that M. K. has formed such a connection.

3^rd. Wrote to the Assistant Superioress of Villa Lante respecting T. Hynes - noticed to her the infamous conduct of Madame Spada. Drove to the Pitti Palace, having L. Costigan as cicerone. Shocked to hear the flagitious stories which Mad[ame] S[pada] has propagated.

Dined with the Costigans - a most amiable and hospitable family - introduced to Col. De Courcy, Cap^t. Smith R.N., Mr. French and wife etc.

4^th. Wrote to Mr. Hynes and Assis. Sup. of Villa Lante - forwarded D^r. O'Finan's letter to Duchess of Lucca. Took a pleasing drive to Fiesole with M. K. and Mrs. Browne - a fair has been held in honour of the Grand Duke's birthday - dined with Mrs. Browne and *M. K.* - spent a very enjoyable evening. Took leave of M. K. for the last time, perhaps - poor thing, she was deeply affected.

5^th. At 8 o'clock started for Leghorn - arrived at 2 p.m. - and put up at Thompson's Hotel.

6^th October 1843. Called at Ristoni's to enquire if the packages from Rome had arrived - only one has.

Met French of Florence - gave him a letter for M. K.

7^th. Embarked in the evening for Genoa on board the Steamer Leopoldo 2 - arrived at two in the morning - the charges of steaming on the Mediterranean are exorbitant - paid 49 francs for my passage.

I had some intention of passing by the way of Lisbon, but I find that it would take me twelve or fourteen days to Marseilles, and the season is too far advanced to admit of such delay.

8^th. I find myself in Genoa once more - lodged at the Albergo Reale. Having given my Guida d'Italia to one of the Demerara priests, I am at a loss for the best route to S. Gothard, and this being Sunday I cannot purchase map or book to assist me.

9^th. Decided upon going by Arona - and engaged my seat in a Velocifero for 27 and a half francs, for Wednesday next.

Tired of the narrow streets of Genoa, I long for the time when I shall rest myself in a home I may call my own.

10^th. The day spent in visiting churches and hospitals. Dined at the Table d'Hôte of my hotel.

11^th. Wrote to M. Kelly and D^r. O'Finan, and posted the letters myself. Preparing to start this evening for Arona.

Left Genoa in the evening by the Velocifero at 5 o'clock - had a good place in the berlino 'till we arrived at Alessandria.

12^th. Arrived at Alessandria 5 a.m., where we had to change Vettura, and were detained 3 hours. Started again and reached Novara at nightfall where we slept.

13^th October 1843. At 4 o'clock a.m. left Novara, which seems a remarkably nice town, for Arona on the Lago Maggiore. I have been fortunate since leaving Genoa in having obtained an excellent place in each of the three Velociferi - after five hours pleasant drive arrived at Arona. Walked about the charming environs and at 1 o'clock p.m. embarked on board a steamer for Magadino. Made the circuit of the beautiful lake calling off the several little towns which border it, to take in or land passengers - Magadino at 6.30 o'clock and started immediately for Bellinzona, where we arrived at 9 o'clock. Made for the Aquila and after an excellent supper prepared myself for sleeping soundly under the protection of the authorities of the Canton of Ticino. The people talk a barbarous Italian which I find it difficult to understand. Indeed, from Genoa here, good Italian is hardly understood.

14^th. Slept soundly last night after the fagging journey from Genoa. Little in the shape of specimens of the fine arts is to be seen in Bellinzona but the scenery around is grand - it is at the fork of the pass of S. Gothard which I am preparing to pass tonight.

15^th. At the unseasonable hour of one o'clock, attended [at] the diligence office the arrival of the said diligence from Milan - booked myself for Fiora or Altorf - my fellow travellers in the same diligence were a prima donna and three other members of an opera company going to Amsterdam, and two Englishmen in a supplementary carriage. Travelled rather briskly till day dawn - we were now ascending Mount St. Gothard. I got out and had a walk of an hour or so - it was bitter cold but the magnificence of the scenery compensated for every inconvenience.

15^th. October 1843. Stopped at a little village midway up the mountain called Aizolo for breakfast - at midday arrived at the refuge station on the summit of the Gothard. Nothing could be more propitious than the day for seeing the mountain passes to advantage. About 1/2 past 12 began to descend and reached the little town of Fiora or Altorf about 1/2 past 6 o'clock - nothing could be more charming than the entire route of the descent. Embarked on a steamer on the Lake of Lucerne for the town of the same name. From the time of our reaching Altorf the good weather which we enjoyed all the morning abandoned us. I could see but little of the lake in consequence of the rain. On reaching Lucerne, made for the Swan Hotel, close by, where I am domiciled just now. This Hotel is beautifully situated on the margin, and from what I have already seen appears to be respectably conducted. What contrast the salle à manger formed to those in Italy. Here I join some dozen travellers, each having before him the materials for making tea, with the urn of water kept boiling by a lamp fed with spirits of wine.

Since leaving the Sardinian States I have not been troubled about passport or luggage - indeed since leaving Rome, I have had but little trouble with the latter, the most being at Genoa.

16^th. Had a refreshing sleep last night - but awoke too late to avail myself of the diligence which started for Basle. It is raining all morning, and I am prevented from exploring the environs of this beautiful little town, and enjoying an excursion on the lake.

The rain incarcerated me this morning, but I have an excellent view of the beautiful lake from where I am writing. Altho' within a short distance of one of the Italian Cantons (the *Tirol*), not a word of that language is spoken here - everyone however seems to understand French.

Paddled about in the rain to see the town, which is clean and beautifully situated. The churches were all closed, but the exteriors do not promise much.

Booked for Basle in the morning at 7 o'clock.

17^th. Left for Basle at the hour appointed - had a charming drive of 12 hours - put up at the Trois Rois.

In the hotels throughout Germany and Switzerland the waiters at the different hotels appear to be a class very superior to which they are in England. They all speak different languages. Engaged my place for tomorrow by the railway to Strasbourg - and from Strasbourg to Cologne by steamer.

18^th. Got in an omnibus which came to the door of the hotel at 73/4 o'clock and took us to S. Louis, a frontier French station and the beginning of the railroad. My passport was here demanded and my luggage overhauled. The length of the railroad is 35 French leagues. We made it in about 5 hours, calling at about 20 different stations. An omnibus took us from the terminus to the Hotel Ville de Paris where I am now writing - dined at the table d'hôte, and a capital one it is. There were several English besides myself. Saw the magnificent cathedral - grand in the exterior, but miserable in the interior.

19^th. October 1843. Saw all the Lions of Strasbourg today - the Cathedral, the monument to Kléber - the tomb of Marshal Saxe etc. Preparing to take the steamer in the morning for Mayence - recommended to visit Franckfort and Wiesbaden, both a short distance from Mayence.

Put on my flannel today for the first time this season.

20^th. An omnibus called at the Ville de Paris for passengers for the steamer at 6 o'clock. Arrived at the station about 7 o'clock but did not start before 111/2 owing to the fog and the danger of navigating the Rhine in such weather.

Met at the table d'hôte of the steamer a most insolent fellow (an Irish Protestant parson) who plunged at once into politics and gave vent to the most outrageous sentiments regarding O'Connell - wishing he was hanged etc. - an Irish nobleman, his lady and his brother were present but did not acquiesce in what fell from this furious gentleman. I immediately left the table.

After dinner the lady just named joined me and walked the deck with me for an hour or so.

Stopped at Mannheim for the night and slept at the Hotel de l'Europe

21^st. Had a run through the town of Mannheim, which is remarkably clean, well built and beautifully situated. Took to the steamer again after breakfast. The lady of whom I yesterday made mention has turned out to be Lady Avonmore, wife of Lord A., and his brother is the Hon. Mr. Yelverton. Lady Avon: walked with me a long while today. She remarked that she thought I was a Roman Catholic clergyman.

21st October 1843. I told her I was a R. C. Bishop. We chatted a good deal about Irish priests, Maynooth etc. She seems a charming person and highly intellectual. She gave me her card and address and said she would be happy to see me in Ireland. She expressed a wish to know my name, upon which I gave her my card. Stopped at Coblentz for the night.

22nd. Visited the Cathedral and took a run through the City before starting. Took to the boat again, and reached Cologne about 12 o'clock. Went immediately to see the great Cathedral - it is a noble building, but it is not half finished - they are however proceeding with its completion. Although Sunday, the shops were all open, and on alluding to the circumstance, might [mine?] host told me, that it was no harm - Hotel Gross Rheinberg - bad.

23^rd. At 6 in the morning started in an omnibus for the railway station - booked myself for Brussels - just in time for the opening of the entire route from Cologne to Brussels. Travelled very slowly till we got beyond Aix la Chapelle and reached Verviers, the frontier Belgian station, where my baggage had to undergo an examination - arrived at Brussels at 8 o'clock in the evening - the stoppages on the road went from three to four hours. The Belgian part of the line is beautiful - the carriages handsome and commodious and the the rate of travelling as good as in England. The country we passed through was highly picturesque and cultivated every inch. Put up at the Grand Hotel Britannique.

24^th. October 1843. An unpleasant morning, but ventured out early to visit the churches and this beautiful city. The Collegiate Church of S. Michael, a Gothic structure, pleases me more than the Cathedrals of Strasbourg or Cologne. The wood carving on the pulpit and about the Confessionals are is magnificent - the stained windows too, are the finest I have ever seen. The Gothic church of Notre Dame de Victoire is also a very imposing building.

Asked for my passport the first time since I left Genoa.

Brussels seems filled with beer shops, and the cafés are by no means good. Altho' so near to wine countries, wine is here 9 (at least in the hotels) as dear as it is in England.

25^th. Preparing to start this morning for Ghent - the facilities for travelling in this little Kingdom are very great - railways being constructed in every direction. Since leaving Genoa, I do not think I was importuned by a beggar till I reached Verviers. Here in Brussels there are few or none.

Left Brussels at 11 o'clock and arrived at Ghent about 2 p.m. Put up at the Hotel de la Poste - but called immediately on the Dominicans. The Prior was out, but a Spanish Father did the honors, inviting me to dine and shew me the Establishment. As I was concluding a very indifferent dinner the Prior came in. He is a Spaniard and not over burthened with good manners. He pressed me however to take a bed in the house etc.

26^th. October 1843. Spent the morning with the Dominicans - said Mass for them in their little oratory - visited their church, which is at a considerable distance from their convent. Went with the Prior to the Béguinage and to see the Cathedral. A Dutch Father named Pratz seemed very much disposed, as indeed did they all, to be obliging - but I saw so little to induce me to prolong my visit that I determined to leave in the afternoon. I never saw so filthy a community - not a man but the Prior had a clean habit on - and this is "common life discipline". Bought a small missal - and at 2 o'clock p.m. started by railroad for Antwerp - where I arrived same night at 1/2 past five o'clock - Hotel S. Antoine.

27^th. Went out early this morning to lionize - visited the superb Cathedral, S. James's, S. Michael etc. - the museum - the quays and the principal public buildings. The churches are very imposing and kept remarkably clean. The Jesuits' church, which I visited in the evening, like all their churches is well kept. In the museum I saw a splendid painting of the Ascension, and another of our Saviour with the disciples of Emmaus, both by Rubens.

28^th. No steamer for London before tomorrow. Called at the celebrated Platinian printing Establishment of Moretus - bought a Missal for the dead.

29^th October 1843. Paid ten shillings for my passage to London, and embarked in the Soho steamer to sail at 12 o'clock.

30^th. Arrived at Blackwall about 10 this morning, detained about two hours till my turn came for the Custom house officers to examine my luggage. Got to Ford's Hotel in the afternoon and found two letters from M. K. Wrote a line to J. Ryan and one to L. Dempsey.

31^st. Received under cover this morning from D^r. Griffiths several letters addressed to his care for me. Called at the London J. Stock Bank - gave to Mr. Brown, the clerk, 88 Napoleons to change - took from him £10. Saw Mr. Jerningham - he was quite au fait of all D^r. Clancy's doings.